Cambodia: Siem Reap without the temples


I thought I’d write seperately about Siem Reap town itself as my other articles will be flooded with temple pictures!

Siem Reap is a strange place. It’s essentially a town grown out of one purpose: a hub for people visiting the Angkor Temples. They get 2 million visitors per year which is a lot of tourist cash, and everyone wants a piece of it. There is everything from bargain backpacker accommodation up to huge 5 star resort hotels this translates through to eating & drinking options. Which is great for choice but means you might have to look a bit harder for a bargain. It also leads to some displays of wealth which I didn’t agree with, such as a tour group popping champagne bottles at the Angkor Wat sunrise in front of tiny kids walking round trying to sell postcards for a dollar. There’s no need to be like that infront of some of the worlds poorest people – it’s a bit of a dick move.

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There are loads of tuk-tuks around town which will run you in and around town for a dollar a go (unless it’s quite far). The traffic system seems even more crazy than Bangkok but it works. Basically anyone does whetever they want (eg turn into oncoming traffic) and people just slow down and give way. Everyone is happy to slow down but no-one everwants to stop. Nobody gets agitated about it, although there are many horn beeps as an ‘I’m coming up behind you’ warning. There is a simple hierarchy in you always give way to bigger vehicles (coach > car > tuk-tuk > motorbike). I like it!

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The middle of town centres around the river, Pub Street and the surrounding pedestrianised alleyways offering all the usual food, drink and souvenirs you would expect. Competition means you can get a draught beer for $0.50, a Khmer meal for $3.50-5 and a western meal (burgers, pizza etc.) will set you back $5-7+. There are happy hours at most places and, despite my comments previously, it is a nice place to while away the evening and watch the world go by.

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Once you are all templed out there is one other essential attraction in Siem Reap: Phare. Phare is a Cambodian circus (no animals involved) borne out of a charities work helping children overcome their troubled upbringing by teaching them all manner of arts.  The show is nightly in a big top on the edge of town and tickets are $18 to book online (NB. Once you do this you have to print a voucher so will need to find a tinternet cafe). The show is an amazing combination of theatre and acrobatics so there is music and a story to follow between all the tricks. It’s brilliantly done, touching and all for helping a very good cause (and actually helping unlike some places). Don’t miss it!

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